Ski Tour to Karakol: Winter Adventures Around Issyk-Kul

During one of our winter tours in Kyrgyzstan, our team set off on a three-day journey around Lake Issyk-Kul. The route combined active recreation with educational stops: we drove through the majestic Boom Gorge, visited the picturesque locations of the southern shore (Bokonbaev, the Skazka and Jeti-Oguz canyons), spent two days skiing at the Karakol ski resort, and relaxed in the hot springs of the Jyrgalan resort. It turned out to be a kind of travel diary of winter adventures - without boring guidebooks, but full of impressions. Here are the highlights!

Boom Gorge - The Road to the Heart of the Mountains

Our journey from Bishkek began early in the morning, taking us through Boom Gorge - a narrow serpentine road cutting through the mountain range between the Chui Valley and the Issyk-Kul Basin. It is the only convenient western route to the lake, a kind of “gateway” to the Issyk-Kul region. The gorge stretches for about 30 km and is famous for its contrasting landscapes: steep granite cliffs hang over the turbulent Chu River, and along the road you can see rockslides and small tunnels. As soon as you enter the gorge, you feel nature begin to dictate its rules - the road winds between sheer walls, forcing you to slow down and admire the view.

“Boom” in Kyrgyz translates as “evil spirit” - according to legend, the name arose because of the dangers that awaited travelers in these parts. In the mid-19th century, travelers spent weeks trying to pass through the canyon, risking their lives on disappearing paths and crossing the rapid Chu River. Today, the modern A365 highway makes the journey much easier, but the impression of the gorge is still just as strong. An interesting fact: scientists have hypothesized that in prehistoric times, Boom might have served as a natural drainage channel for an overflowing Issyk-Kul Lake - water burst through the mountains and flooded the steppe, causing an ancient flood. Now the Chu River flows separately from the lake, but looking at the narrow canyon, it’s easy to imagine such a cataclysm.

Having overcome the “wild” section, we exited the gorge closer to noon. Ahead stretched the wide valley of the southern shore of Issyk-Kul. There were still several hours to Karakol, so we planned some stops along the way - and each revealed a new facet of winter Kyrgyzstan.

Bokonbaev - The Steppe Hospitality of the Southern Shore

Our first stop was in the village of Bokonbaev - the unofficial capital of ecotourism on the southern coast of Issyk-Kul. This is a stunningly picturesque place: on one side stretch the blue waters of the lake, and on the other - the snow-covered foothills of the Terskey Ala-Too mountains. Even in winter, there is a special tranquility of rural life here. We stopped for lunch at a guesthouse, where we were treated to fresh flatbread and fragrant lagman. The locals are known for their warmth and deep respect for tradition, turning a simple lunch into a small cultural exchange.

The village is located about 280 km from Bishkek (a little over halfway to Karakol) at an altitude of about 1,800 meters above sea level. In summer, the area is particularly lively: tourists come to camp in yurts, ride horses across green meadows, and get acquainted with traditional crafts. Every year, during the high season, Bokonbaev hosts the country’s largest bird hunting festival - a dozen local berkutchi (eagle hunters) demonstrate hunting with eagles and falcons, putting on a breathtaking show for visitors. In winter, the festival doesn’t take place, but knowing that famous eagle hunters live in this quiet village adds a special charm.

After lunch, we took a short walk in the surroundings. Not far from Bokonbaev lies the small salt lake Tuz-Köl (also called “Manas’s Bowl”), where the water is so dense that in summer one can float effortlessly. From here, several hiking trails start - leading to wild hot springs in the mountains and to Kyrgyzstan’s longest waterfall. Our route was only three days long, so this time we limited ourselves to a road excursion. Saying goodbye to our hospitable hosts, we continued along the lakeshore - ahead awaited truly fairy-tale landscapes.

Skazka Canyon - Red Rocks and Lake Myths

By midday, we reached the famous Skazka Canyon near the village of Tamga on the southern shore of the lake. Even if you’ve seen photos of this place, the reality surpasses all expectations. Imagine: in the middle of a snowy steppe, red clay hills suddenly rise, weathered into fantastic shapes. Each step reveals new figures - castles, towers, or bizarre animals. It’s no wonder this natural attraction is called “Skazka” (“Fairy Tale”): wandering through the labyrinths of the canyon, you can easily imagine yourself in another, magical world. On a sunny day, the landscape is especially striking - the red cliffs shimmer with shades and seem to come alive in the sunlight.

We spent about an hour exploring several trails on foot. The walk requires no special training - just warm, comfortable shoes with good traction, since the ground can crumble underfoot in places. In winter, there were almost no people, only a couple of curious travelers like us. The fresh snow gave the canyon a new look: white caps on crimson ridges looked striking and beautiful. We were lucky with clear weather, and soon our cameras were filled with “Martian” landscapes.

Amazingly, Skazka’s relief continues to change little by little - after rains and winds, some clay towers collapse while new ones emerge. This place is also wrapped in legends. One local tale tells that long ago a mighty dragon fell in love with a beautiful girl but failed to win her heart. In anger, the dragon cursed the Issyk-Kul valley - every full moon, the waters were to flood it until the maiden agreed to marry him. The clever villagers sealed the wells with golden lids to hold back the flood, but one day the girl forgot to close one, and an entire city sank beneath the water, forming Lake Issyk-Kul. The dragon, devastated by what he had caused, turned to stone - becoming the very red cliffs of Skazka Canyon. Hearing this legend, we gazed at one winding ridge, which locals call “The Great Wall of China” - it really does look like the back of a giant dragon frozen in the valley.

As we said farewell, Skazka gave us one more surprise: as the sun began to set, the red cliffs blazed in fiery orange light. A winter sunset in the canyon is an unforgettable sight. But we had to hurry on, as new wonders awaited us - we had to reach Karakol before dark.

Jeti-Oguz - Legends of the “Seven Bulls” and the Broken Heart

As night fell, we arrived at Jeti-Oguz Gorge, one of the most famous places near Karakol. Even in twilight under the moonlight, the silhouettes of fantastic red rocks stood out against the snowy peaks. The name “Jeti-Oguz” translates as “Seven Bulls” - indeed, from afar, seven large red cliffs resemble bulls lying peacefully on the ground. According to legend, an evil khan once kidnapped his neighbor’s wife. Wanting to keep her, the khan committed a terrible act: for seven days he sacrificed one bull a day, and on the seventh day he killed the abducted girl. Where her blood fell, seven blazing cliffs rose - and since then the gorge has been called “Seven Bulls.”

This isn’t the only legend tied to Jeti-Oguz. At the entrance stands another famous rock - the “Broken Heart.” Its shape truly resembles a giant heart. They say that when it rains, red clay water runs down it like bleeding wounds. Local couples love taking photos there, believing it strengthens their bond. We passed it in complete darkness, but even its silhouette looked mystical against the night sky.

The Jeti-Oguz Gorge stretches nearly 37 km deep into the Tien Shan mountains. By day, tourists usually come to admire the red cliffs and stroll along the meadows by the mountain river. At altitudes around 2,200 m, alpine meadows bloom in summer among spruce forests. The area is a protected natural monument - the Seven Bulls rocks are under state protection. Many wild animals inhabit the surrounding mountains; if you’re lucky, you might even spot snow leopard tracks or see eagles soaring overhead. In winter, the gorge is accessible only with special equipment, so our visit was limited to the viewing platform. We stood for a few minutes, enjoying the silence of the winter night and imagining how beautiful it must look under the bright sun, when the crimson rocks contrast with the blue sky and white snow.

The road from Jeti-Oguz to Karakol took less than half an hour. Tired but happy after such a rich day, we arrived in Karakol around seven in the evening. After checking into a cozy little hotel, we had dinner and much-needed rest - ahead lay another active day of the trip.

Karakol - The City’s History and a Delicious Discovery

Karakol greeted us with a frosty morning and the atmosphere of an old town. The largest city on the eastern shore of Issyk-Kul was founded by Russian settlers in 1869. Throughout its history, it twice changed its name to Przhevalsk - in honor of the famous explorer Nikolay Przhevalsky, who died here during an expedition and wished to be buried on the lake’s shore. Later, the name Karakol was restored, but the memory of Przhevalsky is still preserved: not far from the city stands a memorial museum and mausoleum dedicated to him. If you have extra time, history enthusiasts should definitely visit it.

However, on the morning of our second day, we had no time for museums - the mountain slopes were waiting. Before heading to the ski area, we decided to quickly visit a couple of Karakol’s iconic landmarks. The first was the famous Dungan Mosque - a true architectural marvel: a beautiful wooden structure built at the beginning of the 20th century by Chinese Dungan craftsmen without a single nail! All joints were made using grooves and wooden locks, giving the mosque the look of a pagoda. The combination of Islamic purpose and Chinese architectural elements makes it truly unique. Locals still call it the Ibrahim-Haji Mosque, after the imam who oversaw its construction. The building survived the turbulent events of the 20th century and today functions both as a working mosque and a cultural monument.

The second spiritual symbol of the city is the Holy Trinity Cathedral, the oldest Orthodox church in the region. The wooden temple on a stone foundation was originally built in the 1870s, but the modern structure was reconstructed between 1890-1895 after a severe earthquake. During Soviet times, the cathedral was closed - it served as a club, a warehouse, even a dance hall. Fortunately, in the 1990s it was returned to the faithful and restored, and now its golden domes once again shine above Karakol. We only managed to admire it from the outside - the morning sun beautifully lit the carved iconostasis above the entrance. It was too early to go inside, but several valuable 19th-century icons are preserved there, and it’s worth seeing them in person someday.

Before heading to the slopes, we stopped at Karakol’s central bazaar. The goal was clear - to try the legendary ashlyam-fu. This cold, spicy dish of starch noodles and broth was once brought here by the Dungan community. Karakol is considered the homeland of ashlyam-fu, and locals are sure the best version is served right here at the market. We were convinced the reputation is well deserved - a bowl of spicy, garlicky ashlyam-fu instantly revived us before a day of skiing. The fragrant kuurdak (fried meat stew) and hot sea buckthorn tea also hit the spot. Karakol is famous for its culinary diversity, uniting the cuisines of many peoples. No wonder many travelers call it the gastronomic capital of Issyk-Kul.

Karakol Ski Base - Skiing with a Lake View

After enjoying Karakol’s culture and cuisine, we moved on to the main active part of our tour - skiing. Karakol is rightfully considered the best place for winter recreation in Kyrgyzstan: it is home to the country’s largest ski resort, known for its world-class slopes. The base lies 18 km from the city (about 7 km in a straight line), on the slopes of the Tien Shan at an altitude of about 2,300 m above sea level. The drive took about half an hour. Our group traveled in a spacious Toyota Sequoia SUV - a vehicle perfectly suited for snowy mountain roads. By the way, for families with children we always provide car seats, so the ride is both comfortable and safe.

We arrived at the resort just as the lifts opened. The day was sunny, with a temperature of about -5°C - ideal conditions for skiing. While some bought ski passes and rented equipment (the rental point is right at the lower station), others admired the panorama. From the “lower meadow,” you can see the snow-covered peaks of the Terskey Ala-Too range and the shimmering blue of Issyk-Kul in the distance. From the highest points of the resort, you can take in nearly the entire lake - no wonder they say that on the “Panorama” peak (3,040 m) you feel on top of the world. By the way, Issyk-Kul is the second-largest high-mountain lake in the world after Titicaca, and seeing its shores from three kilometers up is a unique pleasure.

The Karakol Ski Tour is a dream for both experienced riders and beginners. The resort has five lifts and about 20 km of groomed runs of varying difficulty. We spent two days skiing and managed to try almost all the main slopes. There are gentle beginner trails - perfect if it’s your first time on skis or a snowboard (instructors here are friendly and Russian-speaking). For confident skiers, there are “blue” and “red” runs winding through scenic pine forests, where you can weave between centuries-old fir trees. And thrill-seekers will love the steep “black” slopes - some sections reach gradients of 45-50 degrees. Being intermediate riders, we mostly stuck to red runs, but one of the instructors took us down part of a black section - an unforgettable experience! The skis literally fly, the wind rushes in your face, and within a minute you’re at the bottom, heart still pounding from the adrenaline.

The quality of the snow deserves special mention. Thanks to the nearby lake, the climate here is milder than in inland areas - the snow cover lasts from November to April and reaches 1.5-2 meters thick. During our visit (in January), the snow was dry and powdery - perfect for skiing. The slopes are regularly groomed, so in the mornings they’re smooth and fast. But there’s also plenty of room for freeriding: just veer a bit off the marked trail, and there’s untouched snow as far as the eye can see. The resort even offers heli-skiing - taking you by helicopter to wild, untouched slopes. We limited ourselves to small runs between the fir trees on the lower slopes - pure joy. Imagine racing through the silent forest, snow spraying under your skis, no one around - only the sound of your breath and the rustle of powder. Karakol Resort is famous for these forest descents - its signature feature, and the reason so many love it.

After a full day of skiing, we were pleasantly exhausted. The lifts close at 16:00 - the perfect time to rest. But our tour wasn’t over yet: ahead awaited an evening of relaxation and another day of adventure. A little tired but happy, we drove straight into the mountains - to the hot springs.

Jyrgalan - Hot Springs After Skiing

Imagine this: a frosty evening in the mountains, the first stars lighting up above, and you’re soaking in a pool of natural thermal water under the open sky. Around you - silence, only the quiet whisper of steam and the distant murmur of a mountain stream. This magical rest awaited us at the Jyrgalan resort. Just 15-20 minutes from Karakol (about 28 km toward the village of Teploklyuchenka) lies the region’s oldest sanatorium, “Jyrgalan,” founded back in Soviet times around natural hot springs. In 1960, geologists discovered gushing mineral waters here, and by 1964 the first baths and buildings were constructed. Since then, the place has been famous for its healing waters and muds, attracting visitors year-round seeking health and relaxation.

We arrived around five in the evening. The sharp smell of hydrogen sulfide immediately filled the air - the mark of real thermal springs. The “Jyrgalan” sanatorium offers several pools of different temperatures - from cool to very hot. After a day of skiing, plunging into a steaming mineral pool is incomparable! The warm water (about +40°C) instantly relaxes your muscles, improves circulation, and makes you feel your body thanking you. The local water is rich in salts and minerals (mainly chloride-sodium-calcium type), known to have beneficial effects on joints and skin. It’s no wonder that soaking in Jyrgalan is so popular among skiers - even half an hour here gives a burst of energy and well-being.

As we floated in the open-air pool, we admired the mountain scenery around us. The slopes of the Jyrgalan valley darkened in the twilight, while the snowy peaks glowed under a sky full of stars. Somewhere far away, night birds called. The contrast of sensations - the cold mountain air and hot healing water - created a surreal feeling. It seemed like we were in an Alpine spa resort. The sanatorium is open daily until 19:00, so we had plenty of time to enjoy. In addition to bathing, there are massages and wellness programs, but within our short tour, we limited ourselves to the pools.

After the baths, we stopped at the small café by the sanatorium. A hot bowl of shorpo with lamb and a cup of herbal mountain tea made the perfect end to the day. Over dinner, we shared our impressions - only a day and a half had passed, yet we had seen and experienced so much! Content and relaxed, we returned to Karakol for the night.

Return to Bishkek

On the morning of the third day - back to the slopes! We spent a few more hours skiing in Karakol, trying to memorize every turn and descent. Some worked on their technique on gentle runs, while the most enthusiastic repeated yesterday’s freeride route through the spruce forest. It was hard to believe our winter paradise was coming to an end. After lunch, we packed our gear, had a cup of hot coffee at the foot of the mountain, and said goodbye to the welcoming resort.

At 17:30 we started our return journey to Bishkek, carrying vivid memories of the trip. The night road seemed shorter - maybe because we discussed plans for future adventures and scrolled through the photos on our cameras. Near midnight, the city lights greeted us after a long drive through Boom Gorge. Physically tired but absolutely happy, we completed our winter tour around Issyk-Kul. In three days, we saw steppes, canyons, and mountains, tasted local cuisine, and soaked in healing springs. Such a winter trip around Issyk-Kul is sure to stay in memory for a long time! Kyrgyzstan revealed itself to us in a new way - as a country where, in just a short winter journey, you can experience a whole series of diverse adventures.

If our route inspired you - dare to repeat it yourself or join one of our tours!

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